OPAM and Dune (jbuilder) work very nicely IME. You don't need to touch a Makefile, you don't need to build anything by hand outside of the package manager.
i wish there was something like `jbuilder new`, but alas. my current impression is that everything in ocaml-land wants you to spend time writing cryptic configuration files and inventing bespoke project structures.
It just needs a cargo equivalent. The existing tools weren't sufficient last I checked.